A Journey begins….
This idea was crazy from the start. Hike the Foothills trail
start to finish, Table Rock to Oconee Start Park, without any real stops. A
straight through non-stop hike. We planned for 10 min rests every hour and a 45-1 hour rest
every 6-8 hours.
My friend, Erik Knutson, is an accomplished hiker and
backpacker. He planned our food and water. Separately we planned our own gear.
We expected it to be an adventure, just not the one it turned out to be…
The foothills trail is a great diverse hike. Beginning at
Table Rock State Park it starts with what could only be ranked as strenuous.
Your first destination is Pinnacle Mountain. It’s a 1800 ‘ climb in 4.4 miles. The
Trail is great but that is 409 ‘ per mile climb is tough. Not straight up but
pretty steep. Your calves know you aren’t on a stroll pretty quickly. The view
from Pinnacle is breathtaking.
From Pinnacle the next stop is Sassafrass Mtn, SC’s highest
point. The trail after Pinnacle is
pretty technical. Lots of boulders, small foot holds, and for us icy. There was
a lot of moisture on the leaves and it had frozen over night. Not a place to
try and make time.
I had been to Sassafras two other times, this was the first
time it was perfectly clear. It was so bright I couldn’t get a great picture. Sadly the top has been clear
cut for a cell tower. At this point we
had been hiking 5 hours, covered 9 miles and total elevation gain of nearly
6000 ft. All systems were go. We were
breaking every hour for food and drink. Sassafras was a first stop longer than
10 minutes. Our next destination was
Eastotoe creek.
We arrived at Eastotoe creek with some concern. We had not
found suitable water since leaving Sassafras, which put us into conversation
mode. Also, we had planned a stop around 6 for an extended rest. We needed to
be near water when we stopped. No water, no stop. SO a couple of things are
happening. We are behind in rest, nutrition and hydration. Oh, did I mention
the temp is dropping? We’ve gone from a high of 61 on Pinnacle to a low of 45
at Eastotoe. Big drop. We worked so hard to collect food for fire, cook a
dinner( quickly) and make any clothes, food adjustments, we spent nearly 2
hours and had not really rested. At 10 we are back on the trail.
Need to mention: The stars were unbelievable. We were hiking
at the darkest point of the lunar calendar. We had to stop and just take in the
view of so many stars with no surrounding lights to interfere.
My daughter Emily asked if there were any scary moments
hiking in the dark. I wouldn’t call it scary but what we experienced did slow
us considerably. The trails were almost completely covered due to the heavy
leaf fall. We definitely relied heavily on the blaze marks. We did get off the
trail a few times but were able to find our way back. Shout out to those who
maintain the trails. As mentioned before, the ice forming in the leaf layers
led to lots of slips.
We planned our next extended stop around 4 a.m. I had
started feeling weak in my knees anytime we were doing a sharp descent, and on
this trail, that’s often. I told Erik I
needed to rest before 4. The temp was in the low 30s. We decided against a fire and would just try
and sleep. Erik was out immediately. No
such luck for me. I was cramping in my right glute. I couldn’t get comfortable.
We had each brought an emergency blanket for these quick rest. These are the paper thin reflective survival
type blankets. Strangely they worked great for our feet and legs but not our
upper body. We think it had something to do with moisture.
So I didn’t sleep, we didn’t do a fire and we’ve been hiking
almost non-stop for 16 hours and have had our second break. We fuel up and take off. My issues began within the hour. We were
starting a seriously hard climb near Bear Creek when I just felt my legs were
giving way. I was walking/climbing a few feet and stopping. It’s hard to describe the feeling. My mind
felt ok, I was cold but not terrible. I wasn’t breathing too hard but something
was wrong. I called out to Erik and told
him I needed to let my body rest. I ate
and drank something and started again. Within a few minutes it was back. I told Erik something was wrong. At this time I didn’t know what it was but
whatever it was wasn’t getting better and now worse Hypothermia was setting in. I couldn’t stop shaking. It’s 6 am and the
temp is around 30. The thermometer we
had wasn’t too precise so mid to high 20s is possible. I couldn’t work my
fingers or think clearly. I just knew I was in trouble. One thing Erik and I agreed on in our preparation
was that most things that go wrong in these types of situations are from
compounding bad decisions. Our agreement had been we would not let this happen.
Ok, I know you’re saying “Hadn’t that already happened”, but that’s not my
point. Erik instructed me to really wrap
up with my emergency blanket, drink what I could, and he would get a fire
going. Once we had a nice fire, he made me drink coffee and made me oatmeal. We
agreed to not move until I really felt better. I slept for about 20 minutes, drank
an energy drink and fully began to feel better.
I think this is a good point to explain where things started
going wrong. It’s hard to admit but I hope this is helpful to someone,
certainly it has been helpful to me to reflect on what happened.
The first bad decision was not to prepare for this trip like
I would have prepared for a race or other similar high demand, high endurance
activity. Friday am I ate a light breakfast with coffee. Later in the am while
waiting on Erik to pick me up I had another cup of coffee. Once Erik arrived
and we were on the road we stopped at Starbucks for another cup. Three cups of
coffee with no other hydration. Bad decision number 1.
We were starting the hike about 1 hour later than planned due
to a flat tire. The net effect was we were starting later in the day. It was
already in the 50s. When you are wearing a 35 lb pack and hiking you begin to
sweat profusely almost immediately ( remember 4 miles, 1800’ ). We were stopping every hour to drink and eat
but I know now it wasn’t enough. Erik, being the outdoorsman he is, had food
and drink reachable on his pack while walking. I had food but no drink. It
meant I either had to take my pack off or ask Erik to hand me one of my
bottles. Not wanting to bother him, and being a guy, I would ignore that little
voice that said “ I’m thirsty” and wait for the hour break. Bad decision number
2. Remember, they compound.
After the 6 am stop I came fully to terms with I wasn’t
going to be able to make it. My issues had cost us valuable time. We need to
average 2.5 miles per hour for 40 plus hours. We did it the first 15
hours.
At this point the thinking turned toward getting out. If you
look on a map the two highways, 178 and 107 are near the beginning and end of
the trail. That leaves the middle
section without any real access. I believe it was providential that Erik hiked
this section earlier and learned there was an access that isn’t shown on the
Foothills Trail map. It’s the Frozen Creek Access for the Gorges State Park. Great
news. It was 5 miles from where we were
and 1000 ft climb. Not great news. We contemplated me staying put while Erik
got in touch with someone from one of the Forest Services. Since the forest service isn’t a taxi service,
we agreed the chain of events that choice would create was too embarrassing.
Ok, so I decided we weren’t going that route.
As we climbed, we finally got cell service. I was able to
place a call to Jared Ketterman. On Thursday evening, Jared called me and said
“ I don’t care where you are, when you call or what you need. Call me and I’ll
help”. Wow. So I called Jared to pick us
up, he had no idea where we were but said he would figure it out. We lost cell
service almost immediately. Erik went
ahead of me as I was moving so slow so he could meet Jared. It was one of the
greatest blessings of the whole trip.
Let me offer a special word of thanks to Jared for his
unreserved offer of assistance. I can’t thank you enough. A special thanks to
Erik who’s preparation and cool headed thinking kept a sticky situation from
getting worse. Finally, a special thank you to Beth who puts up with all of my
crazy undertakings.
This adventure came to an end but the journey continues….
General learnings from the trip:
·
Hydrate, hydrate and then hydrate more.
·
Even though we planned pretty thoroughly could
have been better.
·
Know your way out, always.
·
On a long distance hike, weight really matters.
I would do a better job keeping with down.
·
Better hiking clothes. Even though I had decent
clothes, I really wish I had spent the money and had true technical clothes.
·
Plan your hike with some trial runs. Have your
pack weighted the same as your longer trip.
·
Prepare your feet. I thought I would wait until problems cropped up but
should have taped up “hot spots” early.
·
Keep important items with easy access instead of
having to take pack off to get things you’ll need often.
·
Descents kill. No suggestions here.
·
Got real tired of the pre-packaged foods. Dried
foods are a great alternative.
·
Emergency blankets are not great for keeping
warm. Just saying.
·
Foothills Trail.
§
Views from Pinnacle are spectacular
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Ascent and descent at the north end of Lake
Jocassee are insane.
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There are many excellent hikes get out and try
one!